|
Join A
Club!
What We Do
Special_Projects
Education
Events
Calendar
Trips & Tours
Youth
Scholarships
Design Tips
Gardening
Tips
Club
Services
Forms
Links
|
GARDENING TIPS
"Crape Murder" and other Horrible
Things
Submitted by Ed
Olsen, Salisbury Garden Club, Piedmont District
Oh my gosh! As a horticulture professiional I don't know how
these companies can get paid to murder these poor crape
myrtles. I know that everyone sees what they do to the
trees at the shopping centers and then they ask their landscape company
to do the same. "Stop the Insanity" (remember that catch
phrase?)! I wish these companies would "Just Say NO." What
a vicious cycle.
Please, please don't commit "crape murder" this year. Prune your
crape myrthles the correct way. February is the right time to do
this task. Check out this web page from the Virginia Cooperative
Extension
Service on how to correctly prune a crape myrtle, www.yorkcounty.gov/vce/programareas/hort/crape_myrtle_pruning.htm.
Please fee free to
direct anyone to this extension web page. The more people know
about the correct way to rpune crape mrytles, the better.
Crape myrtles can be such beautiful looking small trees. Most
only grow to be 10-15' tall. Look at the beautiful stand of trees
down the median of Huguenot Road in Midlothian. Contrary to
opinion, these trees do not get murdered because the state does not
have the money to do it, but because they know that you should
not. If a crape myrtle will be too tall for you to use, select
another plant before you subject it to harsh pruning.
Remember--Right Plant, Right Place.
While we are on the subject of pruning small trees, I recently saw some
other murdered trees. Some dogwoods and maples were recently
murdered in the local area. Apparently the owners of these trees
either thought that what is done to crape myrtles should be done to all
parking lot trees, or some landscaper thought it was a chance to make
some easy money. Either way, these trees will now be completely
destroyed because of the pruning!
Another website to look at from the Virginia Cooperative Extension
Service is: www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/nursery/430-455/430-455.html.
This
site tells you how to prune correctly.
You can also go the VCE's home page at: www.ext.vt.edu and type PUBLICATION PRUNING
in the search
bar. You will get a great list of publications to help ou prune
all types of trees and shrubs correctly.
Learn
more about "GROWING
AND SHOWING" by clicking on one of the following horticulture tips:
BUTTERFLY
GARDENING
Submitted by Pamela Peltier, Butterfly Gardens Chairman for
VFGC and
SAR
This is the time of the year to plan next year’s butterfly garden.
While you are about it, don’t forget the hummingbirds. Their needs are
similar and it is easy to include flowers that they each like.
Butterflies like flowers with a landing platform such as
members of
the aster family or flowers in clusters at the top of the stem. In my
garden,
they enjoy purple and white cone flowers, red and yellow gaillardia,
coreopsis,
buddleia and scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’.
This last one was visited by a butterfly the first week in
December
and again in February. Of course, we had a mild winter, but if you keep
scabiosa deadheaded, it will bloom the entire garden year. Butterflies
also like the Ixora that I grow indoors all winter and put out to bloom
in the summer.
Hummingbirds visit the honeysuckle fuchsia (Fuchsia
triphylla) as soon
as I bring it outside. Its flowers are the red tubular form they like.
Red impatiens in hanging baskets or planters on the deck are sure
winners,
too.
I have three hummingbird feeders that I put out around April
20 and
bring in about the end of September. In my garden, they prefer the
small
flat feeders with red flowers that identify the holes. I have one of
the
tall ones, and the hummingbirds always empty the two flat ones first.
Use
1 part sugar to 4 or 5 parts water, boil it to sterilize it and it will
keep in the refrigerator for a month. Clean and refill the feeders
twice
a week and you will have entertainment all summer. Be sure to put it
where
you can watch from the house.
Butterflies need “baby food”, too. The larva of the Monarch
eats milkweed
leaves. Grow Asclepias tuberosa and keep it deadheaded and it will
re-bloom.
Fritillaries lay eggs on violets. Virginia’s state butterfly, the Tiger
Swallowtail, lays its eggs on the tulip tree, Liriodendron tuplipfera,
so their larval food is plentiful.
In Paris, the Garden of the Tuileries had butterfly plants
in profusion,
zinnias, asters and sunflowers among them. In the gardens of the Palais
Royal were planted Verbena bonariensis, a prime butterfly attractor.
RETURN TO TOP
OF PAGE
IMPROVED CULTIVARS
Submitted by Lu Cavallaro, Piedmont District Improved
Cultivars Chairman
Let’s try some of the All-America Selections (AAS). Check on
the latest selections on the World Wide Web (www) or in reputable
catalogs.
The web page http://www.naturalhub.com is a comprehensive listing of
reputable
seed catalog listings like Shepherds, Thompson & Morgan, Burpee,
Weeks,
etc. Email or jot a note to me with your results and favorites so we
can
share.
AAS does not advertise the AAS Award Winners so look for
them in magazines,
newspapers, garden club bulletins and cooperative extension agents. In
67 years of AAS Winners, there have been 323 AAS Flowers, 255 AAS
vegetables
and 17 Bedding Plant Award Winners. AAS has introduced a total of 595
Award
Winners since 1933. The AAS Gold Medal Award is reserved for breeding
breakthroughs.
Also check places like Plant Society Handbooks and monthly publications
for checking the best selections.
Try the 1999 Gold Medal Winner tomato 'Juliet'. The
one ounce
sweet tomatoes are produced in clusters like grapes on long vigorous
indeterminate
vines. The shape is an unusual elongated cherry type, easy to hold for
cutting. The improved quality is the crack resistance.
Other winners are: zinnia ‘Profusion Cherry’.
Single cherry
rose and ‘Profusion Orange’ are carefree, few pests bother, and are
resistant
to foliar diseases such as powdery mildew and bacterial leaf spot that
no other zinnia can claim. In the full sun garden, plants will reach
about
18 inches and spread about 20 inches. Heat and drought tolerant, these
zinnia plants are easy to grow.
The winning marigold 'Bonanza Bolerno' is distinct because the
flower is gold with red petal tips in a unique design, no flower
pattern
is the same.
RETURN TO TOP
OF PAGE
INDOOR
PLANTS
Submitted by James A. Faiszt, Indoor
Gardening
Chairman
The once universal practice of growing
plants
primarily for food has given away--for most of us--to growing plants
for
pleasure, whether indoors or outdoors. For the indoor gardener, there
is
a “recreational” urge to have the company of “living green”, caring for
houseplants tends to satisfy this urge.
It is a challenge to grow a plant
well. We have
to give careful consideration to the kinds we select, not only from an
aesthetic point of view, but also in meeting the plant’s requirements
for
successful growth and flowering in the home environment.
Growing and caring for our indoor
plants gives
us an inner satisfaction and pleasure. As one writer stated, “if you
are
all nerves, twitchy, and find yourself doing one thing and looking
around
for what comes next, then it is time to relax. Go into houseplants, and
discover serenity.”
Now is the time to prepare your indoor
plants
for the winter. Look them over carefully for insects and/or diseases.
Discard
any infected plants. Readjust your watering and feeding schedule for
winter
conditions. Consider the placement of your plants to take advantage of
the best light conditions. See that humidity levels are properly
maintained
around your indoor plants.
RETURN TO TOP
OF PAGE
PROPAGATING POPULAR
PASS-ALONG* PLANTS
*PLANTS SELDOM SEEN IN
GARDEN CENTERS OR
CATALOGS
Submitted by Ellen Miyagawa, Fluvanna GC, Piedmont
PROPAGATING BY LAYERING
Forsythia is probably the best example of a shrub that layers itself
without help.
1. To start new plants from
desirable shrubs with
flexible branches,
in spring bend a branch to touch the ground about one foot from the
tip.
Dig a hole where the branch touches the ground. At the bend, cut part
way
through the bottom side of the branch and wedge the cut open with a
match
stick.
2. Dust the cut with rooting hormone and bury it 3
inches deep, anchored
with crossed sticks or a u-shaped pin. Water thoroughly. About 6 inches
of stem should show.
3. By the following spring the buried stem will
have produced roots.
Cut it from the parent plant and replant in new location in a prepared
hole.
Walking Iris (Neomarica gracilis)
This house plant with typical iris foliage
blooms in spring with lovely, delicately fragrant blossoms that look
like
orchids perched at the ends of the leaves. After blooming, the spent
flower
bends to the ground and if it touches soil it roots and forms a new
plant
- a perfect example of layering. Just detach babies from the mother
plant-they
look good in a hanging basket.
Breath of Spring or Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera
fragrantissima)
Usually you smell Breath of Spring long before
you see its insignificant flowers. From January to March small, creamy
white blossoms give off a light, sweet, lemony scent. It will grow into
a large, woody shrub, so plant it at the edge of the yard or woods
where
its scruffy appearance won’t offend. Propagate by layering, or digging
up volunteers, or root tip cuttings in June.
Sweet Shrub (Calycanthus floridus)
The blossoms are unusual but not beautiful,
so the delicious fragrance is why we plant Sweet Shrub. But not every
shrub
has that wonderful scent of juicy-fruit gum. It’s in the genes. While
seeds
germinate readily, you may not get a plant with the same fragrance.
It’s
best to layer a lower branch, or dig volunteers while dormant, or try
cuttings in mid-summer.
The Winnsville Rose
This local climbing showpiece has lost its
original name, but in June has been known to stop traffic on Rt. 6.
Roses
can be propagated by layering or by cuttings taken in June.
PROPAGATING BY DIVISION
Division, which is the simplest method of
multiplying shrubs that send out underground shoots called suckers, is
best done in early spring before the leaves have opened. Choose a
healthy
sucker that has sprouted a foot or two above ground. With a spade, cut
a deep circle 6 to 8 inches in diameter around the sucker. This will
sever
the sucker from the main stem of the mother shrub. Then dig up the
sucker,
carefully going deep enough to get it up with all of its own root
system.
Replant in desired place at its original depth and water well. It is
possible
to dig suckers after some growth has begun, but its best to first plant
them in pots and baby them for a month by keeping them in the shade and
well-watered.
Harlequin glorybower (Clerodendrum trichotomum)
This beautiful little understory tree has
huge, heart-shaped leaves and large bunches of fragrant white flowers
on
top of reddish bracts. As each star-shaped flower falls, it gives rise
to a metallic blue berry nestled in the bract. Volunteers sprout
vigorously
in spring and can be dug and moved even into summer. This is the
northern
end of their range so in severe winters they (like crape myrtle) may
die
back to the ground, but will recover.
Kerria japonica
In mid-spring Kerria is a fountain of golden
pompom blossoms, with sporadic bloom all summer. It prefers shade as
the
sun tends to fade the blossoms. It spreads rapidly by underground
runners,
so can be divided from the mother plant. You can also root cuttings or
layer it.
Spearmint
I call this a passalong plant because my start
came from my family’s mint farm in Michigan, which was once the mint
capital
of the United States when mint was used extensively in medicines. This
is a superior strain, but like all mints can be invasive. Just pull up
a stem with roots attached and replant and stand back!
Gooseneck Loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides)
Also known as summer spirea, this two-foot
perennial will grow in sun or shade, and prefers a moist spot. But the
best place to show it off is in a bed of its own in the middle of the
yard
where you can mow around it to keep it in bounds. The friend who passed
it along to me dug it out of a circle eight feet in diameter. Just pull
a rooted slip in spring, or dig it in the heat of summer-it won’t care.
Magic Lilies or Naked Ladies (Lycoris squamigera)
The light pink flowers from these bulbs have
a wonderful fragrance and a colony of them in the yard is a sight.
Thick
strappy foliage emerges in early spring and dies down in early summer.
Then the flowers spring up overnight in August. The time to divide them
is just after the foliage dies, while they are dormant. Plant them 5"
deep.
RETURN TO TOP
OF PAGE
HOW TO MAKE SOFTWOOD
CUTTINGS
Submitted by Doris Crowell, Piedmont District Horticulture
Chairman
Several kinds of desirable plants can be started from softwood cuttings
taken between mid-June and mid -July. These include evergreen
azaleas,
roses, deciduous magnolias, forsythia, viburnum, English Ivy,
Pyracantha,
abelia, privet, mock orange and butterfly bush.
A softwood cutting is one taken from new growth. New
growth roots
quicker than older root growth usually in 8 to 10 weeks. A fast
rooting
process is vital to a cutting’s survival since it can only live a
limited
time without roots. This is why it is almost impossible to root a
branch that has been broken or cut off a shrub or a cut Christmas
tree.
Making cuttings from these plants involves trying to get roots from
wood
that is at least two years old. For best results, select cuttings
from young wood that snaps like fresh string beans. If the
cuttings
are soft and rubbery and do not snap, they are not suitable.
Plenty of moisture is also essential if the cutting is to
survive.
When the air around the cutting is moist, the leaves give off much less
moisture, thus reducing the chances of wilting. It is possible to
create a miniature greenhouse by enclosing the potted cutting in
polyethylene
plastic. Plant the cutting in a pot and completely enclose the
pot
with plastic.
Since the plastic is permeable to air and impermeable to
water vapor,
carbon dioxide and oxygen can flow in and out, and water vapor can be
retained
inside the plastic.
For small lots of cuttings, use clean clay pots of about 6"
in diameter.
Each pot should hold about 6 cuttings. A good mixture for rooting
the cuttings is 1 part sphagnum peat, 1 part clean sand, and 1 part
vermiculite
or perlite. Early morning is the best time to take cuttings.
With a sharp knife, make the cut about 1/4" below a node
(the junction
of a leaf and stem). Remove the lower leaves, leaving two or
three
at the top. Cuttings should be planted immediately, but they can
be stored for a few days in a slightly moist plastic bag in the
refrigerator.
A hormone can be used to speed rooting, - Rootone or Hormodin. In
about eight weeks, check the cuttings to see if they are rooted.
When roots are about one inch long, the cuttings can be planted in
individual
pots or in the garden outdoors. Shade them for a week or two
after
transplanting to help them become established. Don’t forget to
keep
them watered!
RETURN TO TOP
OF PAGE
|
|